Saturday, December 26, 2009

Things I will be making this week: Part 1, Drunken Noodles

Since we've just discussed how I don't like to write about things that I have just cooked, lets preview some of my favorite items that I will be making again this week with my copious spare vacation time. As many folks know, I have never met a noodle that I don't like. So since I have little hope as a low-carber, I embrace a noodle-full lifestyle. My friend W once mentioned that I would make an excellent Chinese person since I like noodles so much. (She is Chinese and now takes me for noodles whenever it is humanly possible.) I don't have a vast pasta repertoire -- some lasagna and homemade noodles here and there, and my grandmother's red sauce. (See my post on meatballs -- we aren't Italian, just hungry.)

So when I found this recipe I was both intrigued and skeptical. Drunken Noodles consist of an Italian/French fusion of flavors. Using thin pasta such as Angel Hair and a bottle of cheap white, you can have a simply amazing dinner. I had read about this technique before seeing Rachel Ray use the technique with red wine last holiday on Iron Chef. I immediately dismissed it for several reasons.


First, we had recently tried pink soba noodles from the Asian grocery and as cute as they were, they looked undeniably like intestines and I figured red wine would cause the same sort of pallor. Secondly, I couldn't imagine that the wine diluted in that much water would taste like anything. And lastly, I felt that the technique was likely a disgraceful waste of wine, but I cannot tell you how glad I am that I changed my mind. As Ms. Saretsky explains in here original recipe article, you can use just about any kind of wine for the pasta -- but white works so well and is a wonderful compliment to the leeks.

Drunken Noodles
Adapted from Kerry Saretsky @ Serious Eats. Original here.

Ingredients

3 medium leeks
or 2 large leeks, sliced into julienne and rinsed 2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup water (you might need extra)

1 bottle of white wine (I like Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc), 1/2 to 3/4 cup reserved (Don't use cooking wine like Sherry or Marsala)

1 pound angel hair or capellini or some other thin pasta.

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup grated Parmesan or Grana Padano

1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Notes and Steps (these are a redux, please see the original for more detail):


1. Make sure to slice the leeks as thin as possible. Otherwise, they take a long time to sweat out. Make sure your cuts are clean and to separate them before they go into the sweating pan or you will just have a mass of onion, not strands.


2. Using a wide sauce pan, sweat the leeks until they are soft and spaghetti-like in texture. The original recipe calls for about 20 minutes. I use an old magnalite with a lid, adding butter/water as needed. Your leeks will likely be seasonally wetter or drier and you simply must adjust...

3. Reserve 1/2 to 3/4 cup of wine, then add the rest to a pot of water with a generous amount of kosher salt. Cook pasta until al dente.


4. Once the leeks are soft, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of wine, and allow to reduce slightly. Then add the cream. Make sure you are stirring and separating those leeks. Add a little pasta water and the rest of the reserved wine. Then toss with the pasta, Parmesan, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

I like some well seasoned boneless chicken breasts with this particular recipe. I have enjoyed cooking them in the cast iron skillet of late which allows a fantastic crust for such a pedestrian protein.

This technique is simple, fast, and worth trying for the extra flavor. The first time I tried this recipe, I added some scallions that needed to be used. Don't do this. Ick. The texture and flavor of sweated leeks and scallions are very different and should be kept separate. Make sure you rinse your leeks really well -- the way they grow makes them prone to be very sandy which is bad for teeth. Enjoy!

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